Plant in the Winter?

If you live in California, it's not too late for winter planting!

Why plant in the spring in California? Some say this idea is a holdover from our ancestors, or perhaps ourselves, as gardeners in the Eastern United States. Most of us don't need to worry about freezing temperatures killing the new plants, why not instead plant in the fall, or winter so they can get a headstart in the rain, before the long dry summer begins?

Most of California is a Mediterranean Climate which means that we have temporate wet winters, long dry summers, wild fire danger,an ocean to the West, and live between 30 degree and 45 degrees North or South latitude.

Only 2% of the landmass in the world has a Mediterranean climate though 16% of the species diversity thrives in them. Where are these located? Most of California has a Mediterranean climate (but not the Sierras), much of Chile, the Cape Provence of South Africa, all the Mediterranean Basin (except the deserts),and two areas in Western and Southern Australia meet the criteria. Many gardeners in California take the plants from another Mediterranean climate and plant them here. I volunteer at such a garden, however, while one can conserve water and fertilizer this way, I am much more an advocate of native plants.

In either case, a gardener does well to consider the climate in his or her planting. Does it actually make sense to plant in the spring, knowing that water will be essential throughout the summer to keep the plants alive? A much more water conservative method is to plant in the fall - late October or November to take advantage of the winter rains to give the plants a huge start in their new locale.

Native plants, in particular, happily send down tap roots when the soil is moist and the air is cool. If you have experienced San Luis clay you know why - in the summer it can become hard as rock. It would seem impossible to grow roots through this medium. Many native gardeners even refrain from summer watering after the first two years, once the plants are well established.

Most of California doesn't suffer much from winter freezes so planting can even continue through December and January if one doesn't manage to get all of it completed in late fall. In our area, October usually brings a plant sale at the Nipomo Native Garden and the San Luis Obispo Botanical Garden. In November there is the California Native Plant Society (CNPS) plant sale.

It's not too late for winter planting to take advantage of the rains still to come, and there is always next fall.

Winter Rain in California

A wet windshield
reveals
a river by the highway
swollen to a lake
spread through farms and orchards
marshy mud fields
that winter rain reclaims.

Spouts
flooding rain barrels
produce
unexpected ponds
around our domicile
especially the bed
laboriously dug for sand
and buckwheat
that's the deepest
waterhole of all.

A lesson in the
pointlessness
of amending rock hard to gooey clay
for native plants,
and also the futility
of planting in the pretence
we can modify the ecosystem
except in the wrong direction.

Nothing Beats Fall Planting

The first rains of fall having loosened the local clay, I was eager to plant all the beauties picked up at the SLO California Native Plant sale yesterday.

Several folks said they planned to plant that afternoon, and I too was inspired knowing that today rain is forecast. If you haven't heard (but live in the Mediterranean California climate) fall is the absolute best time to plant. For anyone who wants to save water, or the cost or chore of watering, it makes sense to plant right before the fall/winter rains begin in earnest. November is just about perfect most years. Even mid-winter is good if you live in an area that doesn't get hard freezes most years.

I guess it shouldn't be a wonder that most people who live in California don't hear this message. My own theory is that nurseries don't want to give out this information because they need to sell plant year round. This seems to be true even of nurseries that sell only California Natives. Another theory is that most of our knowledge about planting and gardening was gained by our forebearers who began their gardening on the East Coast where fall planting would be a ridiculous idea. Most gardeners moving to California didn't or don't stop to think that there might be a new way to look at gardening in this radically different climate.

However, considering the issue of water, it is time to begin growing plants that do not require year-round watering such as a lawn, and many other exotics do. What do I consider an exotic -those plants that are imported from a non-Mediterranean climate. California natives, or plants from other Mediterranean climates can survive just fine after established with only winter rain.

So, if you don't want to be as much of a purist as I am, and just want to aim for Mediterranean plants - what do you look for? Plants that can live through the long dry summer because they originate from areas that have adapted to the same seasons. Those areas include most of the Mediterranean Basin (except the deserts), the Cape Provence of South Africa, two areas in Western and Southern Australia, and most of Chile. Just so you understand, not all of California is considered a Mediterranean climate. The Sierra Nevadas have snow in the winter and thunderstorms in the summer thus not falling into the category of a mild wet winter, and a long dry summer.

Farewell-to-Spring

Bathe/Shower with Clarkia amoena


The Clarkia amoena (Farewell-to-Spring), a California annual native, is out in full splendor right now. This is an incredibly easy to grow annual. It reseeds but doesn't seem to go hog wild like miner's lettace and California poppies might in a yard. The seeds spread out a bit from where they were last year, but in my case, I enjoy them so much I keep thinking of new places to drop the old seedy branches, and leave them for a month or so. That's all it takes.

As far as care goes, they will bloom with only winter/spring rain water just fine below the Cuesta Grade but you can extend their blooms by adding water a few times. I understand you can even get them to bloom in the fall if you plant in summer and water them. They are slow growers though sprouting in January and not blooming until May or June. Of course they are also tall.

The photo above was taken outside my shower/tub window. You want an outdoor shower? See Sunset Magazine for ideas this month. I did long for one after a trial at a lovely place in Mendocino called Osprey Hills, (sadly no longer in business) which was a step up from camping but boasted that outdoor shower.

Our house in SLO was rented for many years to students before we moved in, and the dry rot was enough that the contractor had to make repairs to the outside wall. (Not entirely the student's fault, there was no vent, though there was a large window). The contractor really wanted to decrease the window size so that the shower water could not hit the sill at all. However, we knew we wanted the 4 x 5 foot window size we already had. So, he did his best to protect it, and we are likely much more careful than the students were.

So, we have the best of all worlds: an outdoor shower that isn't outdoors, and it is also a hot tub (for 1 only of course). But with the window open all the way, the sun shining, the birds singing, and the clarkias waving in the wind... what could be better?

Weeding Woes

Perhaps some others in SLO County have been experiencing the same frustration with extra weeds this year of rain. The weather station at www.sloweather.com (located on a hill above Laguna Lake)reports 34.7 inches of rain since July 1, 2009.

I have a few ideas - having asked a few folks what they do, what they suggest.

Pulling seems to work best when the soil is moist, any other time it seems hard to get the entire root system, especially for some types like dandelions. Anyone for goats or weeding geese? Do these critters actually know which are the weeds? They are reputed to go for the grasses not the board leaves - won't work for me as most of my weeds have broader leaves than the natives I've planted.

My friend Ruth has a wonderful California Native garden in Los Osos. She has a gorgeous modern home that seems to be built on dunes that are alive with salvias, buckwheat, ceanothus, oaks and other vegetation waving in the ocean breezes. Not many weeds though. She reports that they used an herbicide at first, and a pre-emergent to prevent seeds sprouting. It's not 100% for her, but helped a lot.

Many with an ecological bent might be unwilling to use an herbicide, but Bert Wilson, of Las Pilitas Nursery told me that I would be sorry if I didn't use one (after I told him the whole backyard I wanted to plant in natives was nothing but weeds). Do I? Some days for sure.

John, who owns a business that does design, planting and maintenance in California Natives, suggests going first for those plants about to set seed. Worth keeping an eye out for this, if nothing else works.

Mike, who also owns a business doing design, planting and maintenance in Mediterraneans as well as natives uses cardboard and carpet scraps in a rather creative way. Where he wants to place plants, he rakes up the weeds at least, then lays down large cardboard pieces (think refrigerators and other appliances). The mulch goes on top, but the planting happens around the same time so I assume he doesn't have to cut into the cardboard. As you can tell, I haven't watched him do this, but a garden I see weekly is though not weed free, a whole lot better than my yard, and it gets a lot more water.

I dry creek bed I made was getting weeds, I once asked Mike what he does with creeks, since I feared that cardboard wouldn't be effective enough. He said he uses carpet that he finds discarded in the dumpsters behind carpet stores. Sounds like a good way to recycle extra carpet.

I have heard that boiling water, with or without vinegar kills weeds. This might be useful on a patio or cracks in sidewalks. I understand this works better on hot sunny days. I think it takes ongoing treatments though.

My husband has his own method using a propane tank wheeled around with a torch. I'm not too enthusiastic about this method as I don't believe it kills the roots of the weeds. It works short term on a patch of white rocks, but is less effective on a patio which looks even worse after treatment than before.

I tried corn gluten meal (pre-emergent) one year at another yard. It didn't do much that I could see.

Nitrogen in excess seems to promote weeds, whereas nitrogen fixing plants such as ceanothus, alders and legumes such as California sweet pea, provide nitrogen more slowly so are not so likely to encourage weeds as much.

What works for you?

Environmental Army

Art Hazelbrook, of Fort Hunter Liggett (U.S. Army Installation), was the speaker at the May meeting of the San Luis Obispo California Native Plant Society. Who would have thought that the Army would have an Environmental Division at this Army training center located in Monterey/San Luis Obispo Counties?

The policy 29-USAG FHL Environmental Management System requires "The conservation and preservation of cultural and natural resources". Several other requirement spell out this commitment to making the site as sustainable environmentally as possible. The cultural resources noted include especially those of indigenous Salinan people.

What might be surprising to some, is that this commitment appears to be real. Many projects have been undertaken to first understand the negative impacts, and then attempt to reverse or mitigate them. The environmentalists at Fort Hunter Liggett have considerable influence over where training exercises are held, and certainly over planned burns, new plantings of California native plants, and other reclamation efforts.

Many in the audience were impressed with what the environmentalists at Hunter Liggett are accomplishing in this U.S. Army training ground. It's nice to know this kind of work is going on, at times even under unexpected umbrellas.

Ethnobotany Blog

Flannelbush(Fremontodendron californica) from Deborah Small's Ethnobotany Blog

"We want to encourage everyone
to fall deeply and intimately in love with our oak woodlands
and riparian streams, chaparral and sage scrub, to
embrace their sometimes harsh but always extraordinary
beauty, and finally, to speak for the community in the widest
sense possible, on behalf of all species.
There’s no place like home."

This blog about indigenous peoples in San Diego County includes gorgeous photos, recipes, gathering stories - all kinds of depth. Worth a look from anyone interested in California Natives (Plant and Indian).

http://deborahsmall.files.wordpress.com

Urban Bee Gardens

Today's Presentation by Marissa Ponder of UC Berkeley at the SLO Botanical Garden was enjoyed by many native bees enthusiasts. The following is the summary of her presentation.

Native bees are 70% ground nesters, and 30% cavity nesters. There are 1600 different native bees species in California, out of 4000 in the U.S. Bumble bees do live in colonies but the others are solitary bees.

Various species are active at different times of the year, they have shorter life cycles (weeks to months) than European (imported) bees which have more honey than other bees because they store it up for overwintering.

Only female bees have stingers, because they use the same tube to either lay eggs or to sting. The males do little else but wait around to mate with the female bees. The females build the nests for laying their eggs. One type of bees, the leaf cutter bees, cut leaves to surround a cell for each egg.

European (honey) bees are generalists more than the native bees. The research on native bees at UCB began ten years ago. Dr. Gordon Frankie began researching native bees in Berkeley and now has gardens that he and his researchers check periodically to determine how many species are active there.

Two sites in the SLO area are being monitored: The Cal Poly Arborteum and the Emerson Community Gardens at the corner of Nipomo and Pismo
n SLO. They have found 87 species of native bees in our city. At the Emerson Community Gardens, there were orginally hardly any flowers, mostly only vegetables. In the last three years, Franke has supplied 300 California native plants to that garden to encourage native bees. Barb Smith, who has been volunteering as the contact point for him, spoke about how this has been working, and how improved the garden is in both beauty and productivity. It has been written up in the Sunset Magazine blog and other places on-line. She called it "A Pollination Explosion". She noted that the bees are shy, not aggressive. She called Frankie the Johny Appleseed of native bees.

Ms. Ponder, explained many more facts about native bees including how to encourage them in a garden. It is important not to use pesticides, and to leave areas without mulch so the bees have a place to build their nests in the ground. She did explain how to build wooden cavities of differing sizes for cavity nesters also.

She said that native bees may be better pollinators, and they are early risers. Male bees, because their main object is to mate with the females, often sleep in flowers to catch the females. Some males however, are territorial and seem to be offering to protect the territory of female bees.

A good way to encourage bees to come to your yard is to plant natives flowers in patches, with many different flowers together (20 different species). They need both pollen and nectar so flowers should be planned to provide both. At their garden they use non-natives to extend the blooming season in the fall.

Other techniques that are useful in encouraging bee activity is to dead head flowers, and even leave hollow stems for a whole year and some may use these as nests.

One person asked how far native bees can fly, the answer was that larger bees can fly further some as far as 5 km. She showed photos and listed several plants that are especially sought out by native bees:

ceanothus, black sage, seaside daisy, chinese houses, blue headed gilia, gumplant, tuckseed (coreopsis grandiflora), california poppy, tansy leaf phacelia, sunflowers (non-native), and cosmos (non-native).

A person who provides habitat for wildlife can apply to have their garden
certified as Wildlife Habitat by The National Wildlife Federation.

coreopsis grandiflora

In Praise of Local

A Deeper Knowledge of the Place One Calls Home


In SLO, I really discovered my love for local, for delving into local history; buying local vegetables, fruit, eggs, cheese, and hormone and antibiotic free meat at farmer's markets; meeting local Native Americans - I discovered a couple with an herb and honey (home grown business); shopping local businesses; volunteering in local non-profits; working to keep the local environment clean and healthy for all; and getting involved in local issues.

My love of local native plants and wildlife are very much a part of my love of my locale and my desire to become as much as possible a part of the local ecosystem.

Discovered recently a website which says very well the part about living in the locale in which you reside. The author, Arvind Kumar, titles many of his articles A Sense of Place.

" On the East Coast, in winter, plants are dormant, leafless, or dead. In California’s winter, plants get plenty of rain, and their root systems grow like crazy.

"In summer on the East Coast, plants grow lush green, helped along by periodic showers, high humidity, and sunshine. In California’s desert-like summer, there is sun all right, but not a drop of rain. Plants that do best in California know how to survive six months or more without water.

"This simple but subtle fact is lost on many gardeners, especially those accustomed to the East Coast climate. They go nuts trying to make sense of California’s seasons, wondering why a California garden needs so much water in summer. Gardening books are of little help, most having been written by and for East Coast gardeners.

"Happy are those who grasp the essential facts about California’s unique climate, and who learn to adapt to California instead of forcing California to adapt to their ideas.

“ 'Being from New York I always used to say that I missed the seasons back East,” recalls Barbara Springer of San Jose. 'What I didn't realize was that I was overlooking the seasons of California and trying to make them fit into the East Coast model. I now have a new perspective where I look forward to each new ‘season’ of rains, germination and growth, blooms, seed collecting, and dormancy.'

"Gardening with nature brings great rewards, not the least of which is a deeper knowledge of the place one calls home. Anyone can create a lush summer garden by watering, watering, watering.The real challenge lies in creating a garden that is appropriate to its environment, to its soil and its climate. Such a garden thrives without consuming large quantities of scarce natural resources.

"The secret to keeping a California garden looking beautiful through summer lies in picking plants appropriate to the site. You can’t go wrong by choosing locally native plants, which are naturally adapted to your soil and climate. California is blessed with a great diversity of native plants, which have unique evolutionary mechanisms for staying alive during the long dry summer. "

Source: www.gardeningwithnatives.com

Lupines @ Shell Creek

Lupinus bicolor (Minature Lupine)
with a Lupinus nanus (Sky Lupine)
to the right

The SLO Chapter of the California Native Plant Society drove in caravan to Shell Creek for a wonderful display of wildflowers. Not one of the experts along on this trip, I mostly photographed, besides enjoying the flowers and the company. Here are three of the four lupines we found.

Do keep clicking on the images to see them up close.

Lupinus nanus (Sky Lupine)


Lupinus albifrons (Bush Lupine)

Wild Strawberries

Above: Woodland Strawberry

California has two native strawberries: Woodland Strawberry (Frageria vesca ssp. californica) and Beach Strawberry (Frageria chiloensis). As you might expect, the woodland strawberry grows especially well in wet lightly shaded areas, it grows fine near turf grass. Beach strawberry can grow in full sun (though in particularly dry years it may need some summer water to look its best), and it can grow in sand or other areas with good drainage.

Beach or Sand Strawberry helps in dune stabilization. Both species have asexual propogation techniques i.e. they form a colony with runners that grow new leaves that attempt to root and then spread on. They can both spread out into a large area, given enough time. Or, a small clump of leaves with incipient roots can be planted in a new location, kept wet and a new plant begins its spread outward.

They both produce white flowers followed by small sweet berries which are certainly edible but you may wish to leave them for the birds who will consider them a real treat. Some birds even eat the leaves of strawberries. Birds that like strawberries include Robins, Quail, Goldfinches, Thrashers, Towhees, and Scrub Jays.

In Central California, both may begin blooming in March or April.

Frageria vesca california grows in the Southwestern U.s., in shady foothills and other locals where shade and moisture give it the habitat it requires.

Besides being native in California, Frageria chiloensis grows natively all along the West coast of South and North America. Folks who like native plants from their own area may especially appreciate those which grow only in their state, or even their very own local, but many of us also appreciate and enjoy those natives that have a broader range of natural growth. Sand strawberry is such a lovely ground cover, I'm glad to know it florishes all up and down the coastline of the Americas.

Below: Beach Strawberry

Ceanothus in Bloom

California Liluc


March is usually the prime month for Ceanothus blooms, and this year is no exception.

There are a lot of varieties from trees down to ground covers,evergreen or deciduous, medium to tiny leaves, blue flowers or white. Most all of them are perfect for an area with a long dry summer, but will likely die if given summer water when it's hot. It's especially a good idea to start these to take advantage of the rainy season's water then pretty much leave them alone during the summer. Maybe if they begin getting a few yellow leaves give them some water at night or on a cooler day. If the soil is well-drained they may tolerate bit more water. From personal experience I'd advise not to plant in April or May and expect to keep them alive unless you plant in the shade and water only a very little bit.

Some think of Ceanothus as short-lived, but this is likely only true if they are given summer water or soil amendments, otherwise they should live 20-25 years.¹

Pruning is an issue you will need to consider early on, unless you plant the ground cover or shrub varieties far away from anything else. If you leave pruning them too long, you will find that the underneath branches have died back and will not regrow leaves or flowers. So, if you do want to keep the plant from getting overgrown keep an eye on it. Or, plan your plantings so that everything is far enough apart that pruning isn't necessary. Ceanothus is fast growing.

Yankee Point is one of the most commonly used in the garden, and easiest to find. Dark star is an especially lovely dark blue/purple color. Snowy flurry is white, but there are 50 Ceanothus species in North America, 41 in California. They have adapted to various soils, climates, and elevations, since California has much climatic and geological variety to which they have adapted. In this diverse landscape several endemics have evolved that only grow wild in very limited locales. ²

The flowers, which bloom for about a month, attract bees, hummingbirds and butterflies. They also have the reputation of being attractive food for deer. However, this is less likely to be true of local species (small leaves especially), and when they are not watered or fertilized. Some native Americans used the blossoms as soap or shampoo - when wet the flowers do create a kind of lather when rubbed between the hands and are apparently cleansing.

The Chumash, one of the native societies that lived in what is now San Luis Obispo County and as far south as present-day Malibu, were more interested in the wood of the Ceanothus plant. In spite of all the varieties they must have encountered, they only distinguished the white blossom varieties from the blue blossomed varieties. The blue-flowered (washiko) lasted a long time in the ground so they used it in building fences, corals, and for poles used in sacred ceremonies. Washiko was often used to make digging sticks. They would choose a stick about four feet long and a little less than two inches in diameter. After the point was shaped, it was then hardened in alternating fire and water until it was sufficiently hard. Then it was often weighted with a stone with a central hole which was twisted up at least a foot from the bottom.³

Ceanothus is a lovely and easy plant for a drought tolerant garden.


¹Carol Bornstein, David Fross, and Bart O'Brien, Californa Native Plants for
the Garden, (Cachuma Press, Singapore,2005).

²David Fross and Dieter Wilkin, Ceanothus, (TimberPress, Inc. Portland, OR,
2006).

³Jan Timbrook, Chumash Ethnobotany, Plant Knowledge Among the Chumash People of Southern California, (Santa Barbara: Santa Barbara Museum of Natural History, 2007).

Wildflowers

Interesting lecture(as usual) by our own Matt Ritter, Botany Professor at Cal Poly on Wildflowers of San Luis Obispo County. He told us that our county includes 3,616 square miles of land but 1,850 different species in that area.

He quoted David Orr who said, "By the time young people enter college they’ve seen thousands of hours of television, four hours and some minutes per day on average. As a result, one study has shown that college students could identify a thousand corporate logos but fewer than 10 plants and animals native to their own place. So we’ve become not only consumers, but hugely ignorant of the terms by which we live on the Earth." New Perspectives Quarterly

Dr. Ritter showed photos of various wildflowers and also told stories about many of them. An interesting one is Goldfields (Lasthenia california, L. gracilis). There are two distinct species that botanists cannot tell apart morphologically (physical form and structure), but the pollinators do, because they each have their own. I guess their DNA is different hence two different species.

David Douglas tramped through San Luis Obispo County in 1830 gathering plants, seeds, and information. He began his plant exploration in what is now Monterey County down into what is now Santa Barbara County. Along the way, he discovered Baby Blue Eyes (Nemophilia menziesii), which soon became a favorite in English gardens. Peak at Book about Douglas

A unusual native wildflower is the Beach Primrose (Camissonia cheiranthifolia). It only releases it's pollen when the flower is vibrated at a certain frequency by a certain bee.

Native Sons just sent out email that their open house for the year will be April 17, 8am - 3pm. They suggest people bring carts or something for the plants they might wish to purchase.

Falling Floods

"Falling floods cascade to carpet the already wet ..."



A poem I wrote decades ago seems in order in the City of San Luis Obispo which has now received over 30 inches of rain since July 1, 2009.

The hills are all a stunning green, and most everything is growing at a stupendous rate, or to great heights (weeds and annuals). However, some plants may not be faring so well. If you planted unwisely or too optimistically with regard to drainage, your plants may have suffered.

Salvias (sages) may have suffered. As Bornstein, Fross and O'Brien say in California Native Plants for the Garden, "Our native sages, without exception, are plants of dry places." My one year old Salvia Pozo Blue is reputed by Las Pilitas Nursery, to survive 7-35" of rain. However, it did not in my garden. Even the Celestial Blue, which was 2-3 years established looks in shock, though it may recover.



Eriogonum giganteum are reported to be adaptable but prefer well-drained soil. A somewhat established one planted in sand and behind a retaining wall near a drop of three feet, bringing gravity to bear, fared well. A new one planted four months ago in clay where there is not much of a slope died quickly.

Another buckwheat, Eriogonum crocatum, about which sources disagree on how adaptable it is, was planted in both sand and clay. One was planted in sand, three in clay. Only the one planted in clay closest to the water valve on the rain barrel died. The others are delightfully coming into their lime green flowers (top photo).

Design Suggestions

A few more ideas on designing your garden. Many gardeners find plants they like, but don't know how to treat the space so it makes a pleasing whole. A back yard with lots of unrelated plants, all one of a kind, is not that attractive. Similar and contrasting colors, shapes and textures makes a garden interesting. Consider groupings of a plant you like so that you get masses of blooms, for example, at certain times of the years. Groupings of odd numbers are usually preferred in art, and you use this. Rocks, patios, arroyos (dry creeks) can all provide shape and structure to your design.

Repetitions can be a unifying quality in a garden. You can repeat the same color multiple times throughout the garden, and also repeat the same plant species several times. An artist will often draw the eye to a focal point, and repeat colors and shapes to make a pleasing whole. Your garden can be your canvass.

Think of the ocean or a fire: two of the most fascinating things in nature because of the endless repetition and infinite variation. You can use this concept in your garden.

One local person who can help with both landscape design and take you out for a garden wholesale shopping experience is GoodEarth Plantscapes owned by Janet Swanson. Contact her at 805-534-9586. Even if you just want to go to Native Sons (almost entirely a wholesale nursery) she can take you there.

Dudleya britonnii pictured above is one of those plants you aren't likely to be able to buy any place else in Central California except Native Sons. It is native to San Diego and Baja but grows well in sand or clay and needs no summer water. Those flower stems will tower over the plant 3 feet with hundreds (?) of little tube flowers that are very attractive to hummingbirds. The plant, especially the flower stems will take on an increasingly pink or even red color as the days get hotter and dryer. After it stops blooming a few months later, cut off the stems and let the rosette shrink back to a smaller size. It will expand again after the winter rains begin. It sometimes even sprouts a side rosette or two. The above Dudleya split in two last year. This year each of those split in two again. Snails and slugs may eat it in damp weather, so keep an eye out. They are easy to find with a flash light after dark after the first sign of a nibble.

Edible Annual

Claytonia perfoliata
Miner's Lettace


The forty-niner's added the "Miner's Lettace" common name to this tasty and attractive little (usually) annual in the area about Sutter's Creek. It kept them from scurvy the stories say.

It can be used in salads and reseeds well (too well?), but is easy to pull up if it begins to take over. It can be a few inches tall before it blooms, or a foot or more tall.

As the weather gets warmer, an attractive pinkish color begins at the lowest part of the stems. While they are still young the color is a very fresh green.

It will last longer in moist conditions, with some sun. It contains Vitamin C, Vitamin A, and is a good antioxident. It can be eaten raw, in stir-fry, or prepared anyway you would spinach. All that, and it's pretty too. Plant it or pick it out in the wild. If you plan to harvest in the wild, pick of just the tops, to avoid pulling the whole plant out of the ground.

Don't know where to buy seeds? Larner Seeds is the answer.

Flash: Miner's Lettace even makes the grade in Sunset Magazine's March 2010 issues just out. (Not online yet.) Pages 63-5. Likely place to find it when March begins, article is called"Vegtable King".

Amazing Annuals

Easy Reseeding

Annuals are an easy way to fill-in a garden while the slower growing shrubs and trees work their way slowly out of the ground. The latter plants put down tap roots during the first two years and often don't grow nearly as fast as some hybrids during that time. They will payoff later in their extreme drought tolerance (assuming you have picked the drought tolerant kind of natives).

Sowing seeds in the fall, or winter will repay you year after year. Lupines, in particular, will require some preparation scarifying or something. They are harder to get established. The photo is Lupinus succuluntus which is a huge lupine, two to three feet high when in bloom. The first year only about one plant survived to bloom, now in the third year seventeen plants were weeded down by (slugs?) to leave eleven plants beginning to bloom.

Annuals in my garden tend to be much more giant than I see out in the wild. I have no explanation for this unless I have more clay than is available on Cerro San Luis, Irish Hills, or the residential area closer to where SLO Weather is located. This year with it's above average rainfall has had an impact but previous years the California poppies and miner's lettace have also been very large.

One warning: the weeds love to hide in annuals. It almost seems to me that the weeds figure out how high to grow so they are not discovered too soon. Some might say it's just the amount of water every plant in the same area, but maybe it's more like growing up to find the sun since some grow higher around manzanitas.

Plant Communities

Back in the day, native plants were replaced with exotics by most people, but a few like Lester Rowntree, appreciated how delightful the natives were. Lester Rowntree was a woman who spent thirty years (the 1920's, 30's and 40's) driving all over the state of California saving plants and seeds from development. She traveled mostly alone in her little truck, though sometimes she traveled by mule. When she (and others) began exploring and saving California plants as she decribes in her major works: "Hardy Californians, A Woman's Life with Native Plants" and "Flowering Shrubs of California and Their Value to the Gardener", there was no mention of plant communities. However writers like her would note the other plants growing nearby.

Gradually, it began to become evident that certain plants seemed to be found together in definable micro-climates in the state. I'm not sure that these categories are hard and fast in anyone's mind but there do seem to be several of general acceptance. Since these plants are linked thanks to the mycorrhizal fungi, it makes a lot of sense that certain plants do especially well together because they are connected in a way that these early researchers in California's botany had no idea existed.

A few of these recognized plant communities include Chaparral, Coastal Sage Scrub, Oak Woodland, and Riparian. Some professional designers might wish to stick to one plant community in a household garden, but others like Glenn Keator and Alrie Middlebrok, who wrote "Designing California Native Gardens, The Plant Community Approach to Artful, Ecological Gardens" put one community's plants in one area then transition to another. This follows nature's pattern, of course, since water or other factors may bring these communities into quite close contact.

There is also the succession factor at work too. A chaparral community may be moving toward an oak woodland as acorns are planted by jays or squirrels.

Mycorrhizal Fungi

What is it, and Why should I care?




I mentioned that in planting it's a good idea not to disturb the soil unduly. The reason for this, is that it is best not to disturb the Mycorrhizal Fungi in the soil.

The network that probably connects 90% of the earth's plants has existed for 460,000,000 year but it is only in about the last thirty years that it has become somewhat understood by scientists. They believe that it was the mycorrhizal fungi that enabled plants to adapt to land, and that this relationship began before there were any plants outside the oceans.

We do know that this fungi filaments attach to the roots of plants in a symboitic relationship providing access to additional water and nutrients. The network can connect one plant to another thus forming a network.¹ Scientists first discovered mycorrhizae observing plants grown in glass boxes. However, the strands of fungi are small and delicate and easily destroyed, and thus it was difficult to study in the wild. They have used core samples near plants and have used DNA testing to study plants in the same area, to determine if they are connected.²

It appears that the mycorrhizae function a bit like having an extra set of roots which are even more porous, and that also provide immune protection against airborne pathogens. New plants once they have been tapped into get extra help in getting established in the new location. In exchange for all the benefits to the plants, the fungi obtain glucose and sucrose. Mycorrhizal fungi can be either ecto- (that that contact the root system and keep an external link to the plant), and endo-mycorrhizal fungi (that actually enter the cell walls and form an internal link). Both kinds use the plant's sucrose to create an enzyme that breaks down minerals in the soil which are useful to both the fungi and the plant.

It's a wonderful relationship in nature, and one that is easy to promote, but also easy to disrupt. The fungi are very easily damaged by disruption of the soil, but also by the addition of fertilizer. The fertilizer overwhelms the fungi and in a sense gives it no reason to exist. Ironic isn't it? We added fertilizer to plants to make them grow better, not realizing that we were killing the very thing that could make them the strongest and healthiest. In fact, fertilizer while it greatly increases growth rate the cells in the stems, roots, and leaves are weaker and thus not as healthy.

What else happens when the soil is disturbed? In a native ecosystem the ratio of bacteria to fungi is about 1:10, when the network is broken the ratio changes in favor of bacteria, the water and minerals in the network is released and alien species such as weeds and rodents thrive.

In contrast, in the plant community linked by the mycorrhizae, the plants support each other. This is also the reason for learning about plant communities, and planting oaks with members of their plant community (Manzanita, Ceanothus, Ribes, Redberry, Coffeeberrry).³

Later: More about plant communities

¹N.A., "Mycorrhiza", February 11, 2010, http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mycorrhiza, (12 February 2010)

²Peter Kennedy,November 2005, "Common Mycorrhizal Networks: An Important Ecological Phenomenon",http://www.mykoweb.com/articles/MycorrhizalNetworks.html, (12 February 2010)

³Celeste Wilson, "California Native Oaks and Mycorrhiza", May 13, 1995, http://www.laspilitas.com/classes/mycorrih.htm, (12 February 2010)

Planting Natives

It's not just like mother taught you



OK, you have your plan and the plants. From here it's more than just digging holes - though there's that of course.

Try not to disturb the soil more than you can help. This means, don't rototill only disturb the dirt a little with the aforementioned hole. Also, don't fertilize or amend unless perhaps adding sand in a kind of raised bed to promote drainage. Although it might take some research to find the right kind of plants for your soil, the planting and growing will be easier and the results more predictable. I will discuss mycorrhizal fungi soon, to explain why no fertilizer and why to not disturb the soil.

Begin with a hole bigger than the plant, but check to make sure that the dirt currently around the plant will be just about 1/2 inch higher than the ground around it - when you build a small basin around the plant (noted below) this will help keep the stem dry which many plants prefer.

Once you have the hole ready, fill the hole with water and let it drain twice, before planting. Then put the plant in and and fill with the local soil. If you are likely to need to water before the winter rains, you can make a basin of about an 8" radius around the stem with extra dirt to hold the water. On top put mulch. This is wood chips on all plants except succulents, desert plants, and those needing good drainage. Gravel sized rocks around all the plants is good. One other thing, put a nice sized rock to the west or south of every major plant. This is to both hold moisture and for the thermal mass it provides. Come to the Botanical Garden Tour on the Oak Glen Pavilion (Education Building) to learn more about thermal mass. It's a property of some substances, including rocks, that keeps the temperature from extreme fluctuations. A rock retains heat captured during the day into the night, then keeps the plant cooler into the day following the night's cooling effect on that same rock.

Depending on the rains you might want to water in a few weeks - deep water is usually best. Check the soil an inch down once a week or so, and only water if it's dry. Some California natives, like Dudleya might not ever need summer water - not even the first two years.

Coming soon - What is Mycorrhizal Fungi - and why would I care?